August 21, 2016

Last November I was awarded a scholarship by the “Civita Institute” (Seattle) for research.

My proposal?

“The Role of the Donkey (L’asino) in shaping the lives, structures, and environs of Civita di Bagnoregio.”

The Old Bridge at Civita di Bagnoregio, pre WWII, with the local transportation of choice, the Donkey

The Old Bridge at Civita di Bagnoregio, pre WWII, with the local transportation of choice, the Donkey

“I lived in Puglia, southern Italy,  from 2005 thru 2013. During trips to local towns such as Ostuni, Vico del Gargano & Peschici, I became aware of what appeared to be “Mini doors” near the higher up “Entry doors”. Further visits to Matera (Basilicata) and Montisi (Toscany) revealed similar setups.

As I gained fluency in Italian, I was able to ask: “per che cosa sono queste piccole porte?” (For what are these little doors?) The answer: “per gli asini “ (for the donkeys). Some still had an animal living with them; not surprisingly, both the owners and animals were quite ancient.

The role of the donkey (and mule) was significant in the past daily lives of rural Italians. And the not-so-distant past.  We can romanticize about a time of living with draft animals under or adjacent to our homes, but what was life really like when people had a donkey living in the basement?

So now, this American semi-retired architect/artist is heading out in a week to start the great “Italian Hill-town Donkey Research Adventure”.

I noted in the proposal that I speak Italian (rather well, not fluent), and want to interview those who still recall “Life with Donkey” (not that long ago for many, and still exists for a small group of remote towns.)

“Why not make a documentary?” the jurors inquired.

Why not, indeed?

#1: I have no camera. “Not to worry”, says Son #1, “I want to sell my “Canon DSL“; it’s yours”.  Ok, now I have the DSL camera.

#2: I have no idea how above-mentioned camera works. Filmmaking Fundamentals at the Northwest Film Forum” (NWFF). Took the class, (and many more) Now I know. Still have lots of practice to do.

#3: Editing? “Get “Premier Pro”, its not that hard..” says Son #2.  Maybe he can help edit when I get back.

#4. “Good audio is really important” says Jonah, the audio instructor at NWFF. “Get something of professional capability”. Sennheiserwireless Lavalier microphone and a Zoom recorder will do. Now I gotta practice some professional capabilities…

#5. Need to improve my Italian, it’s been 3 years. SKYPE.  Weekly lessons with my teaching pal Luisa in Bari. Isn’t the internet amazing?

#6. Gotta start learning about Donkeys in Italian. Books! Yeah! Found a fun read, “Trip with the Donkey“,  and this exhaustive book on Amazon, “The Donkey, the Mule, and the Hinney”

#7. Before the idea of the proposal came to be, I had read The Oregon Trail  by Rinker Buck. The book is a lively read, and “Generous portions of the book are devoted to the history of old and appealing things like the mule and the wagon.” (Amazon review)

Sketching at the Ty Evans Mule training clinic, 2015

Sketching at the Ty Evans Mule training clinic, 2015

#8. I might add that my curiosity was increased after I read the above book, so I attended a Ty Evans Mule Training Workshop last April at Langley, WA.  There I met some fine people, (and donkeys) and was surprised to discover quite a group of Mule/Donkey enthusiasts on Whidbey Island.

#9. Gotta get there. Thank you “Flex Perks US Bank”  Visa. (well, I had to charge a lot to get that many miles, and then pay it off)

So… September 1, 2016, I will arrive at the beautiful, mysterious, almost vacant but for a few hearty originals & a few students ancient hill-town of Civita di Bagnoregio. (however, lots and lots of tourists and, yes, cats)

My plan? See where it takes me, start sketching, walking, talking, meeting folks (recording & interviewing?), and get responses in some form of Italian, possibly in a dialect I can’t understand.

Ah well, it’s all part of the adventure!

At the Ty Evans Clinic, Langley WA, April, 2015

At the Ty Evans Clinic, Langley WA, April, 2015

Ali, Mark and friend

Ali “the farrier” and Mark, owner of 2 American Mammoth donkeys and 4 Miniature donkeys. Whidbey Isalnd, WA.